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Fresno Fire Department Forcible Entry Guide
Fresno Fire Department
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Introduction
The objective of this manual is to provide the reader a comprehensive study of forcible
entry. Although it cannot cover every aspect or technique of this demanding skill, it does
cover those techniques that have proven to be successful for members of the FDNY.
The skill of forcible entry has been part of the fire service since its inception. The
ingenuity and foresight of many talented people developed these techniques, which
were then handed down through the generations of firefighters by “on-the-job training.”
It is our privilege to honor these people for providing the motivation and drive to put this
material together.
Fresno Fire Department
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This manual was adapted from the New York Fire Department Forcible Entry Manual for
use within the Fresno Fire Department. To learn from others experience, this
comprehensive guide on forcible entry was taken from the years of on-the-job
experience and testing done by the FDNY. We thank the FDNY for their continuous
efforts to lead the fire service and pass on the knowledge to make this job great!
This manual was compiled by Captain John Vigiano (Ladder Company 176- Ret.) with
the assistance of several experienced and knowledgeable members of the FDNY. They
are Captain Robert Morris (Rescue Company 1), Lieutenant Mickey Conboy (Squad
41), Captain Bill Youngston (Ladder Company 133- Ret.), Captain Dennis Murphy
(Squad Company 288-Ret.), BC Stephen Geraghty (Battalion 50), Firefighter Kenneth
DiTata (Ladder Company 111), Firefighter James Cody (Ladder Company 24), and
Firefighter John Faracco (Ladder Company 28- Ret.).
Assistance with the illustrations were provided by Zack Herman (Bridgeport FD)
and Joe Fisher.
Fresno Fire Department
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Table of Contents
Introduction ................................................................................................................... 2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ............................................................................................... 3
RESPONSIBILITY ........................................................................................................ 38
Proficiency: ......................................................................................................... 38
Jimmying a Door: ................................................................................................ 38
“Why Are You There?” ........................................................................................ 39
Size-Up ............................................................................................................... 39
TOOLS .......................................................................................................................... 41
Conventional Tools ............................................................................................. 41
Thru-the-Lock Tools ........................................................................................... 41
External Lock Tools ............................................................................................ 41
Power Tools........................................................................................................ 41
Specialty Tools (Limited use).............................................................................. 41
Modified Tools .................................................................................................... 42
Conventional Tools ............................................................................................. 42
Wood and Fiberglass Handles............................................................................ 46
Thru-the-Lock Tools ........................................................................................... 48
Power Tools........................................................................................................ 51
Current Revision
Date:
12/08/2021 Next Revision Date: 12/08/2024
Reviewer
Name/Rank:
Dave Doss, Captain Review Level: 1
Administrative
Support:
Manuel Graves, Civilian
Training Officer
ADA
Fresno Fire Department
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TYPES OF LOCKS ....................................................................................................... 53
Key-In-the-Knob Lock ......................................................................................... 53
Tubular Dead Bolt ............................................................................................... 53
Rim Locks ........................................................................................................... 53
Mortise Locks ..................................................................................................... 54
Dead Bolt and Latch ........................................................................................... 55
Magnetic Lock .................................................................................................... 56
TYPES OF DOORS ...................................................................................................... 59
Wood and Glass Panel Door .............................................................................. 59
Wood Door ......................................................................................................... 59
Kalameine Door .................................................................................................. 60
Metal Door .......................................................................................................... 61
Tempered Glass Door ........................................................................................ 62
Aluminum Frame Glass Door ............................................................................. 62
ADDITIONAL SECURITY DEVICES ............................................................................ 64
Sliding Bolt.......................................................................................................... 64
Static Bar (Drop Bar) .......................................................................................... 64
Angle Iron ........................................................................................................... 65
Shielded Angle Iron ............................................................................................ 66
Home Made Locking Device ............................................................................... 67
CONVENTIONAL FORCIBLE ENTRY ......................................................................... 69
Entry Definition ................................................................................................... 69
Entry Size-Up ..................................................................................................... 69
Steps for Forcing a Door .................................................................................... 70
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Alternate Methods to Gap an Inward Opening Door ........................................... 77
The Halligan Tool Gets Stuck ............................................................................. 81
The Door Does Not Open During the Initial Operation ....................................... 84
Driving the Lock off The Door ............................................................................. 86
Angle Iron Inward Opening Door (Door swings away from you) ......................... 87
Forcing the “J Channel” Inward Opening Door ................................................... 88
Using the ADZ End ............................................................................................. 89
Using the Fork End ............................................................................................. 90
Problems Encountered When Forcing Outward Opening Doors ........................ 92
Metal Strip on the Edge of the Outward Opening Door ...................................... 93
HINGES ........................................................................................................................ 97
Hinge Types ....................................................................................................... 97
Standard Hinges ................................................................................................. 97
Self-Closing Hinge .............................................................................................. 97
Pin Type Hinge ................................................................................................... 98
Standard Hinge – Inward Opening Door (Door swings away from you) ............. 99
Standard Hinge ................................................................................................. 101
Standard Hinge – Outward Opening Door (Door Swings toward You) ............. 101
Pin Hinges ........................................................................................................ 103
CHOCKING THE DOOR ............................................................................................. 105
Securing the Door ............................................................................................. 107
Thru-the-Lock Entry .......................................................................................... 108
Size-Up ............................................................................................................. 109
Key-In-The-Knob Lock ...................................................................................... 110
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Forcing the Key-In-The-Knob Lock - Using the Officer’s Tool .......................... 110
Forcing the Key-In-The-Knob Lock – Removing the Center of the Knob .......... 111
Forcing Key-In-The-Knob Locks – Outward Swinging Doors ........................... 111
Tubular Dead Bolt ............................................................................................. 112
Forcing the Tubular Dead Bolt .......................................................................... 113
Problems Encountered When Using the K-Tool ............................................... 114
RIM Locks......................................................................................................... 114
Principal of Operation – RIM Lock .................................................................... 115
Using a Lock Puller (Officer’s Tool / K-Tool) ..................................................... 116
Driving Off the Lock .......................................................................................... 119
Mortise Locks ................................................................................................... 119
Principle of Operation – Mortise Locks ............................................................. 120
Pivoting Deadbolt ............................................................................................. 122
Principle of Operation – Pivoting Deadbolt ....................................................... 122
Forcing the Pivoting Deadbolt - Using the K-Tool ............................................. 123
Forcing the Pivoting Deadbolt – Using the Vise Grips ...................................... 124
Forcing the Pivoting Deadbolt – Using the Vise Grips ...................................... 125
Alternate Means of Forcing – Using the Saw.................................................... 126
Alternate Means of Forcing – Using the Saw.................................................... 126
PADLOCKS ................................................................................................................ 127
Categories of Padlocks ..................................................................................... 128
Padlock Size Up: .............................................................................................. 128
Parts of a Padlock ............................................................................................ 128
Light Duty Padlock ............................................................................................ 129
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Heavy Duty Padlock ......................................................................................... 130
Special Padlocks .............................................................................................. 131
Hockey Puck / American 2000 Series .............................................................. 131
Wrapped Lock .................................................................................................. 132
Gate Locks ....................................................................................................... 132
Bolt Lock (Medeco) ........................................................................................... 132
Mushroom Lock ................................................................................................ 133
Tank Lock ......................................................................................................... 133
ASSOCIATED HARDWARE USED WITH PADLOCKS: ........................................... 134
Hasps ............................................................................................................... 134
Slide Bolts......................................................................................................... 134
Forcing Padlocks – Using the Forcible Entry Saw ............................................ 135
Padlock with Exposed Shackle: ........................................................................ 135
Padlock with Shielded Shackle ......................................................................... 136
Hockey Puck Lock (American 2000 Series) ..................................................... 136
Pike of The Halligan Tool ................................................................................. 137
Forcing Padlocks – Using the Bolt Cutters ....................................................... 138
Forcing Padlocks – Using the Pipe Wrench ..................................................... 139
Forcing Padlocks – Thru-The-Lock ................................................................... 140
ROLL-DOWN SECURITY GATES.............................................................................. 141
Fire Ground Problems ...................................................................................... 141
TYPES OF GATES: .................................................................................................... 143
Sliding Scissor Gate ......................................................................................... 143
Forcible Entry Operations ................................................................................. 144
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Construction Features ...................................................................................... 145
Forcible Entry Operations ................................................................................. 146
Mechanical Roll-Down Gate (Chain Hoist) ....................................................... 147
Open-Grill or Designer Gate (Variation of A Roll-Down Gate) .......................... 149
Locking Devices Found on Roll-Down Gates ................................................... 150
Gate Lock (Bolt Lock) ....................................................................................... 152
External Shields ................................................................................................ 153
Cutting the Roll-Down Curtain .......................................................................... 155
MISCELLANEOUS SECURITY PROBLEMS ............................................................. 160
Window Bars .................................................................................................... 160
Forcing Window Bars ....................................................................................... 160
Window Bars: Various Types and Mountings ................................................... 162
Window Gates .................................................................................................. 163
Forcing Swing Bar Gate ................................................................................... 164
HUD Windows/Doors ........................................................................................ 164
Forcing A HUD Window .................................................................................... 167
Plywood Covering Window/Door ...................................................................... 167
Chain and Padlock (Formidable Device) .......................................................... 169
Tight Door in a Metal Frame ............................................................................. 170
DEFINITIONS ............................................................................................................. 173
REFERENCES ............................................................................................................ 177
TABLE OF FIGURES ................................................................................................. 178
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RESPONSIBILITY
It is important to understand that the fire cannot be extinguished, searches cannot be
made, and extension of fire cannot be checked until entry is made. The fire fighter
assigned the job of gaining entry is given that responsibility. To accomplish this task,
there are an assortment of tools and techniques, which this text will introduce to you.
Some techniques are basic, others are more difficult, but all are achievable.
Proficiency:
Why all firefighters should be proficient in the basic forcible entry skills.
The need for speed in gaining entry. It is important to realize that most fire
and emergency operations start at the front door or main entrance. Before any
tactical moves can be made, (e.g., search, rescue, or the stretching of a hand
line to the seat of the fire), the entry door must be opened.
Reduce damage resulting in improper techniques. Most people given tools
can gain entry. A door can be “battered” down with an axe (the movie version).
However, until we consider what is behind that door, we want to ensure the
door’s integrity. Why destroy a perfectly good door for a non-fire emergency?
With the proper training, most firefighters will be able to open a door with
minimal damage.
Professionalism. This is the benchmark of a good firefighter. The firefighter
represents the Department and ultimately the City of Fresno. Pride in our work
will reflect pride in the Department. By reducing the damage to a minimum, we
ensure the safety of the people we serve. Remember that when we leave the
fire scene, the doors we destroy leave the occupants vulnerable to further loss
from vandalism. The people we are sworn to serve rely on our good judgement.
Jimmying a Door:
The old technique of "jimmying a door” (the spreading of the door away from the
jamb without damaging the lock) can seldom be accomplished today. This is due to
stronger doors, more formidable locks, and multiple locks on a single door.
The primary motivation should be professionalism. As a firefighter, you have an
obligation to get the job done safely, efficiently and with the least amount of
damage. At times, brute force must be combined with skill, technique, and knowledge.
You control that action.
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For situations such as: water leaks, steam leaks, lock-ins, etc., consider the least
damaging means of gaining entry. In some instances, you may be able to enter
through a window or by using a “Thru-the-Lock” method of entry. Always use common
sense when forcing your way into any premises; you never know what is behind that
door or window.
You must also consider what will happen once your job is done. Who will provide
security for the occupancy after you leave?
To become proficient in the skill of forcible entry, you should have a mixture of:
Hands on training – this is the primary way to sharpen your skills.
Experience – by going to fires and emergencies and actually "forcing the
door.”
Knowledge – may be gained by experience, reading, observing, and
attending training seminars and by exchanging information and ideas with
other firefighters.
Finally, using some common sense and trusting your instincts; they are usually
correct.
“Why Are You There?”
What are the reasons for entry? Is it a Tactical Response? That is, for a fire and/or life-
threatening emergency, or is it a Routine Response for a non-life-threatening
emergency? In either situation, control, speed, and effectiveness of access to the area
of operations will justify the amount of damage done by the firefighter. Remember, the
goal is to: protect life, extinguish fire, and control all hazards.
Size-Up
This is the ongoing evaluation of the problems confronted within a fire situation.
As you get off the apparatus, you should be asking the following questions:
Where is the fire?
How many floors?
What type of occupancy?
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What type of building?
Size-up starts with the receipt of an alarm and continues until the fire is under control.
This process may be carried out many times and by many different individuals during a
fire or an emergency.
In conducting a size-up we should consider the following:
Occupancy: Knowing you are responding to a residential or commercial
occupancy will help determine the type of doors and locks you may
encounter. This will help determine what specialized tools may be
required.
Door: Knowledge of the type of door and its components may guide you
as to proper tool placement and method of entry. This would include:
1. Direction of door opening: Most residential doors open into the
occupancy. They are considered inward opening (away from you).
Whereas in commercial occupancies, the door opens out of the
occupancy. They are considered outward opening (toward you).
2. Door Frame: A structural case or boarder into which a door is hung.
Also referred to as a Door Buck, Door Jamb or simply, the “Frame.”
They can be made of metal or wood.
3. Hinges: There are many types of hinges used today. The types we
discuss here will be known as (a) standard, (b) self-closing, and (c) pin
type.
4. Replacement Door: A new pre-hung door and jamb installed into an
existing doorframe.
Locks: To determine the degree of difficulty in forcible entry you should
have a working knowledge of the various types of locks as well as a
basic understanding of how they operate and how they are installed. One
should also take notice of how many locks are present and where they are
located on the door.
And finally, you should always TRY THE DOORKNOB - “is the door
open?”
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TOOLS
The success of any job resides in the knowledge of the tools and their correct
application. Listed here, within categories, are many of the tools used in forcible entry:
Conventional Tools
Axe (6 and 8 pound)
Halligan Tool
Maul (10 pound)
Halligan Hook (steel shaft)
Thru-the-Lock Tools
K-Tool and Key Tools
Lock Puller (Officer’s Tool)
Shove Tool
Vice Grips (may be used for Padlocks, Thru-the-Lock)
External Lock Tools
Bolt Cutter
Pipe Wrench with Cheater Bar
Power Tools
Power Saw
Cordless Drill/Cordless Sawzall
Specialty Tools (Limited use)
Vice Grips (may be used for Padlocks, Thru-the-Lock)
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Modified Tools
Modified tools are standard tools and/or devices that have been modified for use in the
fire service. Shown are the most common types out in the field
Channel Lock Pliers
Key Tools
8-Pound Axe
The following are brief descriptions and reasons we chose the above tools for Forcible
Entry. There may be firefighters that have a different approach or use different tools to
accomplish the same end, but these are the tools we have used and are most familiar
with.
Conventional Tools
Axe (6 and 8 pound): This should be a FLAT HEAD type axe and not a pike head axe.
The purpose of this axe is to drive (SET) the Halligan Tool. There are two sizes
available, and choice is up to the unit.
Either axe should be “dressed,” e.g., the striking part of the axe should be filed and kept
square. Avoid having the crown of the axe from “mushrooming” over.
Figure 1 - Irons Married Together
The axe with the Halligan Tool forms the “Irons” which are the basic forcible entry tools.
The axe can also be used to:
“Chock open” the door.
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Figure 2 - Choke a door open
at the jamb
Be a backstop for the Halligan
Figure 3 - Choke a door open at the
floor
Hold the purchase when repositioning the Halligan Tool.
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Figure 4 - Hold the purchase of the
opening
Figure 5 - Be a backstop for the
halligan
Halligan Tool: There are many models of this popular tool. The one illustrated here is
approximately thirty inches long with a beveled fork, a tapered ADZ, and pike. For more
details refer to “Conventional Forcible Entry” (below).
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Figure 6 - "Pro Bar" Single Piece Halligan
Figure 7 - Set of Irons
Proper maintenance of tools and equipment is the first step in tool safety. Tools should
be inspected and cleaned on a regular basis. Always check for wear and damage. If
equipment is found damaged it should be removed from service until repaired or
replaced. Proper care of forcible entry tools will increase their serviceability.
Metal Parts
Remove any dirt or rust with steel wool or emery cloth.
Use a metal file to maintain the proper profile and cutting edge.
Sharpen edges and remove any burrs with a file.
Do not keep the blade edge too sharp as this may cause it to chip when in
use.
Do not grind the blade as this may overheat the metal and cause it to lose
the temper.
Never apply oil to the striking surface of a striking tool (axe or Halligan).
“Dress” the edges to keep square and free of burrs which may splinter off
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when striking tool.
Figure 8 - Sharpen the bevel
of the forks
Figure 9 - File off mushrooming of the
flat head from striking the halligan
Wood and Fiberglass Handles
Clean with soap and water; rinse and dry completely.
Check for damage and sand off any splinters.
Do not paint or varnish the handle. A small band of paint or brand may be
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used to identify the tool.
Ensure the head of the tool is securely fastened.
Use tape to mark off a narrow stripe on handle to identify unit.
Figure 10 - 10# Sledge
Sledge (10 pound): This tool comes in a variety of sizes, but the most common and
versatile is the 10-pound model. This tool may be used in place of the axe to form the
“Irons.” Other uses would be to “batter” a door or to remove cinder block from a window
or door of a vacant and sealed occupancy
Halligan Hook (steel shaft): This tool is a six-foot, steel shaft hook, with a distinct
shaped head and is commonly referred to as a “Halligan Hook.”
These are primarily “pulling tools,” e.g., for pulling ceilings. For entry, the steel shaft can
be used to set the Halligan Tool into a tight doorframe (such as a bulkhead type door)
by “toeing” on the end of the shaft and driving the Halligan Tool with the shaft.
Figure 11 - Halligan hook steel
Figure 12 - Halligan hook fiberglass
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Thru-the-Lock Tools
K-Tool: This tool was developed for pulling a lock cylinder (Thru-the-Lock entry) on a
door. It is used with an axe and Halligan Tool.
Figure 13 - K Tool with lock
blades
Figure 14 - K Tool slides over
the lock to pull the lock face off
The K-Tool is forced behind the ring and face of the cylinder until the wedging blades
take a bite into the cylinder body. Light blows with the axe set the K-Tool.
The Halligan Tool’s ADZ is placed into the slot on the face of the K-Tool and pried
upwards, pulling the cylinder from the door.
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Figure 15 - Homemade shove knife
Vice Grips: A very useful tool for any firefighter’s toolbox. This locking plier can be used
to “unscrew” a mortise lock cylinder from the lock housing or to simply hold a padlock
while it is being cut with a power saw.
Figure 16 - Vice Grips used to twist lock face and expose internal
locking mechanism
Figure 17 - Bolt Cutters Large and Small
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Bolt Cutter: Another tool used for cutting hasps, light-duty padlocks, and chains. It is
limited by the opening spread of the blades. It is not recommended for cutting case-
hardened shackles since that may damage the cutting blades. If possible, when cutting,
try to cut the staple holding the padlock. If you must cut the padlock, cut both sides of
the shackle.
Figure 18 - Pipe wrench used
like vice grips to twist off
lock face and expose
internal locking mechanism
Figure 19 - Pipe can be slid onto the
pipe wrench and used as a cheater
bar to gain leverage on sticky locks
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Power Tools
Saw: The Power Saw improves forcible entry efficiency by facilitating cutting operations
at fires, especially where roll-down security gates are present. These saws come in a
variety of models. They require a metal cutting blade when cutting padlocks and/or roll-
down security gates. The saw is usually run at low Rpm’s until a groove is made in the
metal; the power is then increased to maximum speed to complete the cut. More will be
covered in Section 14: Roll-Down Security Gates.
Figure 20 - Rotary Saw
Cordless Drill: A method of Thru-the-Lock entry which causes minimal damage to the
door. It is a convenient tool for entering high-rise office buildings.
Figure 21 - Cordless drill
Cordless Sawzall This tool is quickly becoming multi-versatile. Not only is it good for
removing gates and bars, but it is also used in vehicle extrication.
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Figure 22 - Cordless Sawzall
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TYPES OF LOCKS
Key-In-the-Knob Lock
As the name implies, the locking mechanism is part of the knob. These locks are found
on both residential and commercial doors.
Figure 23 - Key in Knob
Tubular Dead Bolt
This is a very popular locking device. It may be single or double key activated. It is a
cross between a mortise lock, rim lock and a key-in-the-knob lock.
Figure 24 - Tubular deadbolt
Rim Locks
These locks are usually installed as an add-on lock. They are installed on the inside
surface of the door (with the cylinder extended through the door). Only the cylinder is
visible from the outside of the door.
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Figure 25 - Rim lock
Figure 26 - Rim lock attached
to surface of door
Mortise Locks
Designed and manufactured to fit into a cavity in the edge of either a metal or solid
wood door. They have a solid, threaded key cylinder, which is secured in place by set-
screws. Two most common types: Mortise/Latch Key and Mortise/Doorknob (see
below).
Figure 27 – Mortise
lock in frame
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Figure 28 - Mortise lock
Dead Bolt and Latch
This commonly used lock today contains both a latch and a bolt in a single unit. It is
distinguishable by the proximity of the lock cylinder to the doorknob. Below are
examples of this type of lock.
Figure 29- Mortise
/ Latch Key
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Figure 30 - Deadbolt
and Latch
Figure 31 – Mortise
/ Doorknob
Magnetic Lock
The magnetic lock is a relatively new locking device that has been incorporated into
occupancies for added security.
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Figure 32 - Magnetic
door locks
Figure 33 - Magnetic
door lock add-on
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Figure 34 - Place nail on magnet lengthwise
Note: Placing a common 8-10 penny nail over the magnet will prevent the door from re-
locking.
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TYPES OF DOORS
Wood and Glass Panel Door
This was a very popular door in older buildings. It provided light to the public hall in
multiple dwellings. The original plain glass panels were changed to wire glass. Some
wood and glass doors may contain plate glass. Today these are found in some older
“Mom and Pop” stores.
Note: Plate glass may be quite dangerous. When broken, it may fall in large sharp
pieces. These pieces have significant weight and force to cause serious cuts or
stabbing and dismembering injuries.
Figure 35 - Wood frame with glass insert
Wood Door
There are two types of wood doors: Hollow Core and Solid Core.
Hollow Core: Made up of an assembly of wood strips formed into a grid. These strips
are glued together within the frame forming a stiff and strong core. Over this framework
and grid are layers of plywood veneer paneling.
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Figure 36 - Hollow core door
Solid Core: The entire core of the door is constructed of solid material such as tongue
and groove boards that are glued within the frame. Other solid core doors may be filled
with a compressed material that is fire retarded. In either case, the door is sided with a
plywood veneer covering.
Figure 37 - Solid core door
Kalameine Door
The main problem with a wood door, especially in multiple dwellings, was the
“burn-through” time. To overcome this problem and to increase the burn-through
time, these doors were covered with metal. They were known as “Kalameine
Doors.”
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Figure 38 - Kalameine
door
Metal Door
Constructed of metal, these doors are usually set in hollow or filled metal
doorframes. When set in a masonry wall, as well as a metal frame, they are quite
formidable and will hold back considerable fire. Today a metal door is quite common
even in private dwellings.
Figure 39 - Metal door
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Tempered Glass Door
The tempered glass door is Distinguishable by the lack of a full frame with little or no
trim. The door handle is usually mounted through the glass. The lock may be installed in
either the top or bottom stile usually the bottom one. It is commonly known as a
“Glass Door.”
The breaking characteristics of Tempered Glass are quite different than ordinary Plate
Glass. This is due to the heat treatment given to the glass during tempering. This results
in high-tension stress in the center of the glass and high compression stress in the
exterior surfaces. These tension and compression stresses balance each other. The
heat treatment also increases the strength and flexibility as well as the resistance to
shock, pressure, and temperature increases.
Tempered glass is approximately four times stronger than plate glass, when broken and
disintegrates into relatively small pieces.
Figure 40 - Tempered glass doors
Aluminum Frame Glass Door
These are the most popular doors in commercial occupancies, especially the taxpayer
type. It is not uncommon to have the plate glass replaced with tempered glass, lexon or
plexiglass in some areas.
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Figure 41 - Aluminum frame
glass door
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ADDITIONAL SECURITY DEVICES
Sliding Bolt
The sliding bolt is a device that travels in a track, which locks into a recessed hole or
hardware. Padlocks may pass through rear of bolt and make the bolt secure. These
slide bolts may be made of case-hardened steel. They are installed with screws or
carriage bolts, which may be exposed or guarded.
Figure 42 - Slide bolt added on with supplemental locks
Static Bar (Drop Bar)
A static bar is a fastening device that can be mounted across the door at any point.
Generally, they are in pairs. The bars are held in place by brackets, which may be
fastened to the doorframe.
Figure 43 - Double
drop bar
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Figure 44 - Outside
view with bolt heads
Figure 45 - Drop bar
Note: With the Sliding Bolt and Static Bar in place, you know the occupants did not exit
through that door. There is either another means of egress, or the occupants are
still inside. Static bars in place may not be visible from the outside.
Angle Iron
A device secured to the door and occasionally the doorframe. It can be found on both
inward swinging doors (away from you) and outward swinging doors (toward you). It
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may be partial or run the full vertical length of door. It represents another form of
security which may be added to an occupancy.
Figure 46 - Angle iron over door gap
Shielded Angle Iron
A device that is mounted to both the door and the frame and inter-locks on itself. It may
be partial or run the full vertical length of the door. It is two separate pieces mounted,
one to each surface. By adding this inter-locking piece of angle iron additional security
is added to the occupancy.
Figure 47 - Shielded angle
iron
Note: The arrow points out a lock cylinder located NEAR THE BOTTOM of the door.
This simple but ingenious set up prevents most “push-in” forcible entries.
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Figure 48 - Secondary
lock on bottom of door
Home Made Locking Device
A recent ingenious method of securing a door has started to appear in multiple
dwellings. This is a homemade modification of a “chain lock.”
Here the occupant bolts a length of heavy chain to the inside of the door. (The Chain is
similar to that which secures motorcycles.) Generally, the carriage bolt and washer are
secured approximately one foot or less from the edge of the door and about one-foot
above the doorknob. The other piece of chain, similar in size and strength, is attached
to the doorframe.
Joining the two pieces is a heavy-duty padlock.
What makes this device so ingenious is its simplicity and effectiveness. Since the
carriage bolt may be overlooked, the forcible entry team will force the door, and then be
confronted with a heavy-duty chain and lock which continues to secure the door.
Most people know a chain and lock can be quite formidable, especially if not under
tension. Add to this the products of the fire venting out through the opening created by
the initial forcible entry. Now the team must remove the chain and lock under much
worse conditions.
Suggestions: In your size-up of the door, check for the presence of a bolt head in the
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door. If you suspect this is the chain lock, drive the bolt head through the door BEFORE
forcing the door. This can be done with the pike of the Halligan Tool and sharp blows
delivered with the axe or maul. Size- up is very important. If you miss the bolt head on
the door, entry may be delayed.
Figure 49 - Supplemental homemade locking devices
If the bolt is missed, and the door is forced open, lock the fork of the Halligan Tool
around the chain at the frame side and try to pull it out of the frame. While doing this,
maintain pressure on the door in the open position.
If fire emits from the open door, close the door until a charged line is in position, then
continue as above.
This is not a simple operation. If the chain is bolted through the frame or secured with
more than a single bolt, a forcible entry saw may have to be used. In this case, a delay
will cause the fire to accelerate.
Figure 50 - Lock
halligan into chain
and attempt to pry
chain from the frame
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CONVENTIONAL FORCIBLE ENTRY
Entry Definition
Conventional forcible entry is the oldest and most versatile method of entry. Usually
a two-person team, using a flat head axe and the Halligan Tool accomplishes this task.
It requires skill and technique to master, and at times this may have to be done by one
firefighter. When forcible entry is required, it should be started immediately. A door
should be forced in such a manner as to preserve its integrity. If speed is an important
consideration in gaining entry, then conventional forcible entry should be considered.
Once a firefighter has mastered the skill of using the axe and Halligan Tool (Irons), most
doors, even those that are well secured can be forced quickly. With the combination of
the axe and Halligan, the forcible entry team can generally force any door or occupancy.
It is a simple matter of technique and leverage.
Figure 51 - Forcible entry team
Entry Size-Up
The fire ground is a very stressful place to work in. This is especially true for the first
arriving units who must accomplish a variety of tasks immediately. Among them is
making a correct entry size-up.
Prior to forcing a door: The Forcible Entry Team should: TRY THE DOOR to
determine “IS THE DOOR LOCKED?” Too many times over-aggressive firefighters
have forced an unlocked door. They should take note of the Type of Door and the
Locking Devices involved. Also, what are the Prevailing Conditions at the scene,
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such as heat, smoke, and visibility? They should then feel the door and/or the doorknob.
This may give an indication of the amount of heat behind the door. Finally, Check for
Resistance; push in at top, center, and bottom of door. This may give you an idea as to
where the locking devices are secured.
To master this skill a firefighter should have a basic knowledge of the types of doors
and security devices he/she will encounter, in addition to the skills gained through
hands-on experience. Also, the firefighters must have confidence in their skills that will
allow them to work through any situation under pressure.
Steps for Forcing a Door
Most conventional forcible entry involves several moves to accomplish the goal. To
make it understandable, we have broken down the operation into three separate steps.
Each step may have additional maneuvers, but once one understands the basic
principles it is easy to follow and move quickly through the steps.
The recommended steps for forcing a door are GAP – SET – FORCE.
FORCING INWARD OPENING DOORS (door swings away from you)
1. GAP the DOOR - This step will make an opening in the door and/or frame
to create a purchase point. It may also force open a poorly secured
door.
Work the ADZ into the stop on the doorframe approximately 6 inches
above or below the lock (see “Note” below). The tool can be set into
the frame by swinging like a bat and driving the ADZ into the frame.
If there are 2 locks close together, go between them (unless they are
stacked locks).
Push up or down on the Halligan Tool causing the ADZ to rotate and
crease the door. Best purchase is gained when the ADZ end is used
on the door, not the pike.
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Figure 52 - Gap the door up and down
Note: The reason for the 6-inch rule is to avoid the Halligan Tool from striking the lock.
The fork of the Halligan Tool is approximately 3-inches wide, and most lock
bodies are also 3-inches wide.
Technique Tip: You will lose power when pushing down if the pike hits the door. You
will increase spread by moving the tool up.
SET THE TOOL - This step requires the most skill. This involves working the FORK of
the Halligan Tool into the Gap to spread the door away from the frame. The Halligan
Tool is considered “Set” when the FORK is “locked in” to the inside of the doorframe.
Position the Halligan Tool FORK approximately six inches above or
below the lock cylinder. If the tool is too close, the FORK may hit the lock
and will not go through to “lock in.” If it is too far away, the door may flex,
and the lock will not fail.
Place the FORK of the Halligan Tool, (Bevel to the Door) and angle the
Halligan Tool to work around the doorstop. This is considered the ideal
position since it produces the most spread of the door and frame and puts
the most stress on the locking device. It is important for the member
holding the Halligan Tool to “walk the tool” around the doorstop and
frame.
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These methods give greater range of motion to the halligan tool since the
ADZ will be facing away from the door and not strike when the door is
forced.
It also offers a better striking position. The Halligan Tool will stand out at
approximately 90 degrees to the door allowing the member with the axe
more room to maneuver and deliver the necessary blows.
Figure 53 - Gap the door
Note: When there are multiple locks closely spaced on the door (stacked locks),
position the tool above the upper lock or below the lower lock. Remember the
six-inch rule is a general rule and should allow the FORK to clear the inside to
the lock.
The forcible entry firefighter should be between the door and the
tool. Generally, the forcible entry member should have his shoulder in
contact with the door. This position gives a good view of the area where
the tool is being driven in and gives full range of motion for the tool as it is
pushed away from the door as it is being driven in.
The forcible entry firefighter should keep his eyes on the FORK end of
the Halligan Tool where it is being driven into the Gap.
Keep moving the Halligan Tool away from the door as it is being driven
in (struck).
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Set the Tool
Figure 54 - Spring the door
to prevent the forks from
hitting the frame
Figure 55 - Set the Tool
Technique Tip: As soon as the tip of the fork is past the edge of the door, sharply push
the tool away from the door. “Spring” the door away from the frame
and maintain pressure on the tool to prevent the tips from striking the
frame.
When the Halligan is nearly perpendicular to the door, drive in
forcefully. The FORK end of the tool is driven past the inside of the
frame. This will ensure the tool being “locked” into position and not
slipping when pressure is applied.
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The tool is SET when the ARCH of the FORK is even with the inside
edge of the door / doorstop.
Figure 56 - Arch or Crotch
of the halligan
Figure 57 - Fork tip locked onto frame inside
the door
Striking the Halligan Tool
Coordination and communication must be maintained between the members of the
forcible entry team.
The member holding the Halligan Tool (forcible entry firefighter) controls
the operation.
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The member with the axe strikes the Halligan Tool PERPENDICULAR TO
THE ADZ.
The member with the axe may have to stand, crouch, or kneel to obtain
the best position.
The member with the axe strikes the Halligan only when told.
The commands “HIT” and “STOP” must be understood.
Figure 58 - Strike the ADZ and drive the body of the tool
Maintain Control
Short chopping blows.
Perpendicular to the ADZ.
In line with the shaft.
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Figure 59 - Driving the
body
Note: As the tool is SET, more powerful blows can be delivered.
1. FORCE - When the Halligan Tool is set, force is applied to the tool
creating leverage against the door.
Forcible entry member changes position to face the Door. This gives
him better position to apply pressure.
Ensures everyone is ready.
The other member of the team should try to control the sudden
opening of the door by holding onto the doorknob or applying a hose
strap to the knob.
Figure 60 - Push door inward using the frame as a fulcrum for the
forks and halligan
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Push in sharply to create maximum force.
If strong resistance is met, a second firefighter may be used to assist.
As the door opens, the second firefighter must MAINTAIN CONTROL
OF THE DOOR.
Figure 61 - Two-person force
Note: In the above method, as the door is flexed from the pressure, note the presence
of fire behind the door. If fire is present, make sure there is a charged line in
position to protect the forcible entry team.
Alternate Methods to Gap an Inward Opening Door
Pike or ADZ into the Frame
Driving the PIKE or ADZ into the doorframe with either the axe or maul, or simply by
taking a “baseball-bat swing,” should give the tool enough bite to ensure a purchase.
Try to bury the PIKE into the frame as close to the door and lock as possible. This
procedure is very quick and simple for a one-man operation. This procedure may
force the door. It works best on wooden doors with wooden frames.
Place the PIKE between the door and the doorstop, on or near the lock.
Drive (set) the PIKE with the axe.
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Figure 62 - Pike into the frame
Figure 63 - Gapping the door with
the ADZ
Bevel to the Frame
Place the BEVEL of the Halligan Tool against the frame and with an axe or
maul, drive the Halligan Tool in.
This is usually done when there is a very tight door with stiff resistance:
o Usually a metal door with a metal frame.
o Obstruction is in the way making it difficult to strike the tool.
As the tool is driven in, it must not be driven into the frame. This takes a “feel” of
the tool to do correctly.
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Note: This method does not give the full range of motion to the tool. The ADZ will
strike the face of the door as the member pushes towards the door.
Figure 64 - Bevel to
the frame
Batter the Door
Batter the Door with a few sharp blows with the Halligan Tool, axe, or maul to loosen
the door to allow the ADZ to be slipped in. However, when using this method, you must
hit the “rail of the door,” since this is usually the strongest area of the door.
Striking the door at other areas may weaken the door or knock out a panel such as on a
raised panel door. This is dangerous since it allows heat, smoke, and fire to vent out of
the opening making further forcible entry more difficult. Do not knock in the panel unless
there is a charged line in position.
Figure 65 - Batter the door
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Technique Tip: If the door is set in a weak wood frame, several sharp blows to the
door right on the lock may split the frame. This is especially true if
the door contains a mortise lock. Note the mortise lock is set into a
cavity made in the door. This may compromise the integrity of the door.
Batter the Door Frame
Batter the Door Frame by striking with an axe, maul, or Halligan Tool approximately 6
inches above or below the lock and driving it away from the door to allow entry for the
Halligan Tool. Sometimes steel frames are filled with concrete and may not crush.
Figure 66 - Batter the frame
Remove the Door Stop
Remove the doorstop on wood and / or Kalameine doors with the ADZ or FORK
end of the Halligan Tool. This is a simple way to open a door with minimal damage.
This method works best on wood doors with wood frames.
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Figure 67 - Remove the
door stop
The Halligan Tool Gets Stuck
Problem: THE FORK IS IN CONTACT WITH THE DOORFRAME
Solution:
Increase the angle away from the door.
“Rock” the tool to free it.
Re-Gap the door; reverse the tool (Bevel to Frame).
Move further away from the lock; this makes the door easier to spread.
Figure 68 - Contact with doorframe
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Figure 69 - Increase angle
Problem: THE FORK IS HITTING THE BOLT OR LOCK
Solution:
Reposition the Halligan Tool above or below the lock.
Figure 70 - Striking bolt/lock
Figure 71 -
Reposition halligan
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Problem: THE FORK IS WEDGED INTO A TIGHT DOOR
Solution:
Springing the Door
o Move the Halligan Tool side to side to free up the tool.
o Push sharply and hold until the tool is driven further in.
Figure 72 - Spring the door
Problem: THE FORK IS WEDGED INTO A TIGHT DOOR
Solution:
Slipping the Lock
o Move the Halligan Tool up and down. This may allow the tool to slip
past the bolt of the lock.
Figure 73 - Wedged
forks in tight door
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The Door Does Not Open During the Initial Operation
Problem: THE DOOR FLEXES AND DOES NOT OPEN
Solution: Method A – Using the ADZ
Maintain the purchase with axe or another tool.
Slip the ADZ (or door chock) inside and behind the doorframe.
Both members of forcible entry team push or pull on the Halligan Tool.
If the doorframe collapses and the ADZ gets stuck between the door and
the frame, use the axe to wedge open the space, then push or pull the
Halligan away from the door to release the ADZ.
Figure 74 - Top View
of ADZ in door
Figure 75 - Front View
of ADZ in door
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Note: This method greatly increases the Range of Motion of the Halligan Tool and will
break most locks.
Problem: THE DOOR FLEXES AND DOES NOT OPEN
Solution: Method B – Using the Axe and Fork End
Extra push may be obtained by placing the head or blade of the axe
between the Halligan and the door.
Place either the blade or the head of the axe into the door seam.
Push in sharply with the Halligan.
Problem: THE DOOR DOES NOT OPEN DURING THE INITIAL OPERATION
Solution: Method B – Using the Axe and Fork End
Figure 76 - Blade into
door seam
Figure 77 - Head into
door seam
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Problem: DOOR OPENS PARTIALLY DUE TO STRONG LOCK(S)
Solution:
Place the Halligan Tool directly on the lock and drive it off the door.
Driving the lock off the inside of the door takes sharp blows with the axe.
Remember that you are trying to drive out the screws that hold the lock
onto the door.
Figure 78 - Drive lock off
the door
Driving the Lock off The Door
Figure 79 - Visualize
the locking mechanism
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Figure 80 - Drive the lock off the door
Note: If you can crush the door enough to see the locking device (especially the vertical
deadbolt type), you may be able to shear off the striker with the Halligan Tool.
Angle Iron Inward Opening Door (Door swings away from you)
Usually bolted to the door, may be partial or full length.
The angle iron may be flat stock or shielded (interlocked with “J” channel).
Place the BEVEL towards the angle iron and the tool PERPENDICULAR
to the door between the angle iron (shield) and the frame.
Lock the tips of the fork into the doorstop and push in sharply, (GAP) the
door with the fork between the angle iron and the frame.
Reset the tool and drive in (SET).
Using the angle iron under the tool, (FORCE).
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Figure 81 - Gap, Set, Force with the Forks
Forcing the “J Channel” Inward Opening Door
A newer type of device that is screwed into the door frame.
The technique is modified by driving the FORK end of the Halligan
between the shield and the door frame.
Drive the FORK in until the tips hit the door.
Push the tool toward the door, popping the shield off the frame or bending
it out of the way.
Re-set the tool and drive it in until it is set.
Force the door.
Figure 82 - Gap, Set, Force inside the angle iron
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Using the ADZ End
Place the ADZ between the door and the frame.
GAP the door by rocking the tool up and down to spread the door from
the frame.
SET the tool, and pry the door out by pulling on the Halligan so the ADZ
can be driven in. Be careful not to “bury the tool” into the doorstop.
Force the door, set the ADZ end around the inside of the door.
Figure 83 - Gapping the door (Top
View)
Figure 84 - Gapping the door (Front
View)
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Figure 85 - Set the Tool
Figure 86 - Force the Door
Note: The firefighter always faces the door.
Using the Fork End
GAP the door by placing the bevel side of the FORK toward the frame,
just above or below the lock or hinge.
SET the tool, pry the door by pulling out on the Halligan so the FORK can
be driven in past the inside frame. Be careful not to “bury the tool” into
the doorstop.
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FORCE the door, set the FORK end around the inside of the door and
by pulling or pushing the Halligan Tool away from the door (toward the
wall).
To use this method, the Halligan Tool must have sufficient room to allow the
movement of the tool away from the door.
Figure 87 - Gap, Set, Force
Note: These methods will be dictated by the configuration of the building or
any obstructions near the door.
PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED WHEN FORCING OUTWARD OPENING DOORS
Problem: RECESSED DOOR OR OBSTRUCTION
Solution:
To allow the ADZ to be driven in and around the door stop and to provide
sufficient space for the ADZ to move away from the door.
o Make a hole in the wall (if possible), for the movement of the tool.
o GAP – SET – FORCE the door.
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Figure 88 - Tight spaces
are usually the norm in
forcible entry
Problems Encountered When Forcing Outward Opening Doors
Problem: DIFFICULTY GETTING A PURCHASE (Tight Seam between Door and
Frame)
Solution:
Use the Blade of the axe.
Use the Fork or ADZ end of the Halligan.
o Tilting the ADZ up or down may start the purchase easier.
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Figure 89 - Gaining a
purchase with the blade of
the axe
Figure 90 - Gaining a
purchase with the ADZ of the
halligan
Metal Strip on the Edge of the Outward Opening Door
Additional security may be installed on these doors by bolting a metal shield to protect
the space between the door and the frame. It may be a full-length or partial shield.
Dealing with the shield will require an additional step before proceeding to Gap – Set –
Force.
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Figure 91 - Additional security on doors
Drive the ADZ end under the edge of the metal strip and push the tool
toward the door. Work the ADZ between the door and the frame and drive
in to establish a gap.
Figure 92 - Use the ADZ
Drive the FORK end under the edge of the metal strip and push the tool
back toward the door.
Work the FORK between the door and frame. Reverse the tool if
necessary.
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Figure 93 - Use the Forks
Drive the ADZ end between the door and shield, bending the shield away to
allow entry of the Halligan Tool.
Figure 94 - Peel the
angle iron to present the
gap
Shear the bolts and pry, bend or remove the shield as a last resort.
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Figure 95 - Remove
shield as the last resort
Note: At times if the angle iron is secured well, it may assist you in opening the door. If
not, then you must remove it to access the door.
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HINGES
Hinge Types
There are many types of hinges used today. The types we discuss will be known as:
Standard
Self-Closing
Pin Type
Standard Hinges
Most common type found in residential occupancies. May find two or three
mounted on a door. The center pin connects the two pieces of the hinge.
Figure 96 - Standard hinges
Self-Closing Hinge
This hinge is more common in commercial type occupancies. It is a sealed,
spring-loaded hinge. These may also be mounted in sets of two or three to a
door.
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Figure 97 - Self closing
hinge
Pin Type Hinge
As a rule, these hinges are mounted on the exterior of Commercial
Occupancies. The “Pin” is secured to the frame and the hinge is secured to
the shutter or door.
Figure 98 - Pin type hinge
Forcing a door at the hinge side SHOULD NOT be a primary means of
gaining entry.
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Once a door is forced in this manner you will “lose the integrity” of the door.
The PRIMARY means of gaining entry should be on the LOCK side.
Forcing a door at the hinge side should only be done when ALL other means
of gaining entry on the lock side have failed.
Standard Hinge – Inward Opening Door (Door swings away from you)
Some suggested means of gaining entry:
Force the door to expose the hinge, using the Halligan, then work directly on
the hinge.
Create a gap and use either the ADZ or FORK end of the Halligan.
Place end of tool just below the hinge.
o ADZ ends apply force either up or down.
o FORK ends apply force either toward or away from the door.
Using the PIKE end, as a fulcrum, separate the hinge from the frame.
“Batter the door” at the hinge.
With the back of the axe, maul, or Halligan Tool, strike the solid part of the
door adjacent to the hinge.
Figure 99 - ADZ End
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Figure 100 - Fork End
Figure 101 - Pike End
Figure 102 - Batter the
door
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Standard Hinge
Removing A Door
With the door partially open, slip the ADZ between the door and the frame
just below the hinge; then pry up or down.
Figure 103 - Remove door
Note: ALWAYS attack the UPPER hinge FIRST so that smoke and heat will rise while
completing the entry on the bottom of the door. Be aware, many doors now have
three hinges.
Standard Hinge – Outward Opening Door (Door Swings toward You)
Some suggested means of gaining entry:
Place the FORK end of Halligan Tool over the exposed hinge and pry up or
down.
On stronger hinges drive the Halligan over the hinge and twist side to side to
break or loosen the mounting screws, then pull out.
Remove the pin, if possible, to separate the hinge.
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Figure 104 - Remove hinge front and
side view
Note: ALWAYS attack the UPPER hinge FIRST so that smoke and heat will rise while
completing the entry on the bottom of the door. Be aware, many doors now have
three hinges.
Technique Tip: For a Bulkhead door, keep the door between you and the opening to
protect from heat and or flames, which may come out.
Self-Closing Hinges
Method 3
Cut the hinges with the forcible entry saw.
Note: ALWAYS attack the UPPER hinge FIRST.
Technique Tip:
For a bulkhead door, keep the door between you and the opening to protect
from heat and or flames which may come out.
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Figure 105 - Cut hinge
Pin Hinges
These types of hinges are usually found on shutters. They can also be found on
commercial buildings and places of public assembly. The “pin” is attached to the
window frame or doorframe, and the shutter or door holds the corresponding hinge.
Some suggested means of forcing entry:
Use the power saw to cut the hinge.
Breaking the anchor point where the hinge is set by using the back of the axe,
maul, or Halligan.
Prying the hinge with the hydraulic tool.
Figure 106 - Cut the smallest
amount of metal
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Figure 107 - Break out the masonry
holding the hinge
Note: Be aware of possible venting smoke and or fire. Place the shutter/door between
you and the opening if possible.
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CHOCKING THE DOOR
This is a very basic and important task that gets overlooked from time to time. Many
doors are self- closing and if not chocked open, delays other members from entering the
fire building (occupancy).
Whatever means used to chock the door must be “positive,” not something that can be
knocked out unintentionally. However, it must be something that can be removed
quickly if necessary.
It is suggested that the first unit to enter the fire building be responsible for “chocking”
the door. That could be the Officer or any member of the forcible entry team.
Some suggested methods of chocking a door:
A wooden chock wedged under the door. Every member should carry at
least two wood chocks in their pockets.
Figure 108 - Place wedge
out of the walking path
so it does not get kicked
out
Figure 109 - Wood wedge
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Head of axe slid under the door. As the forcible entry team enters the
occupancy, the axe is wedged under the door. This method marks the door,
keeps it open and safeguards the axe since it is rarely used INSIDE once the
door is forced. If you feel the axe might be needed INSIDE, then this method
would not be appropriate.
Figure 110 - Axe head as
door chock
Head of axe placed between the door and the frame, below the bottom hinge.
A variation of the above method is placing the axe between the hinges. This
ensures the door staying open and lessens the chance of the axe being
kicked out by members entering. It also marks the door and safeguards the
axe. If you feel the axe might be needed INSIDE, then this method would not
be appropriate.
Figure 111 - Axe head
in frame
A nail placed between the frame and door
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Figure 112 - Nail in frame
Disable the door by placing a tool between the frame and the door just above
or below the hinge and prying down will break most hinges and keep the door
open.
Figure 113 - Remove the door so it does not close
Any other method that keeps the door open.
Securing the Door
To ensure that the “opened” door does not close and re-lock, the following methods
may help.
“Rigging the Lock” - Throw the bolt of the dead bolt lock so the extended
bolt will prevent the spring latch from locking.
Placing a latch-strap over the doorknobs to prevent the spring latch from
engaging.
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Figure 114 - Rigging the lock
Figure 115 -
Latch strap
Thru-the-Lock Entry
The “Thru-the-Lock” approach is a means of gaining entry by attacking the locking
device and opening the door with little or no damage to the door or frame. This is a
professional method of entry and serves as a good public relations tool.
In most cases, this method would only be used when time and fire conditions are not
urgent, or where conventional methods would cause more damage than the fire itself.
Examples would be high-rise office buildings, hotels, motels, and/or commercial
occupancies, where many rooms and or occupancies must be checked without causing
too much damage. The Thru-the-Lock method usually does not create as much of a
security problem as conventional forcible entry method.
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There are times with certain types of locks that the Thru-the-Lock method of forcible
entry may be a quicker, more efficient means of entry, whatever the conditions.
Since security has been improved through technology over the years, this book can only
address what is most common. This section of the book will outline some basic
principles, methods and techniques used in Thru-the-Lock Entry.
Size-Up
Size-up is an important function that is performed, for all operations, on the fireground. It
is critical that a proper size-up is done before we begin our forcible entry operation.
Though it is impossible to know for sure what type of lock is securing the occupancy by
looking at a solid door from the outside, we can make an educated guess based on:
Type of occupancy.
Type of door.
Location of the lock cylinder(s).
Direction the door moves (inward or outward).
What we see on the door (other than the locks).
Anything unusual (lock cylinders out of line).
Knowledge of the type of lock.
Let the fire condition dictate your method of entry.
Combine all this information with past experience and proceed in attacking the lock,
not the door.
We need to understand that only practice will make us more proficient in our operation,
so we must use every opportunity.
Note: The cheaper the lock, the more difficult it may be to force. Cheaper locks tend to
break up causing delays, and/or requiring alternative means of pulling the
cylinder.
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Key-In-The-Knob Lock
As the name implies, the locking mechanism is part of the knob. These devices are
found on both inward and outward swinging doors. The spring latch on many of these
locks enters the striker approximately 1/2 inch.
Forcing the Key-In-The-Knob Lock - Using the Officer’s Tool
The doorknob can be removed simply and quickly with the Officer’s Tool (FDNY),
without damaging the stem assembly.
If the door is hollow, an axe can be placed behind the tool to give the
fulcrum a substantial base to pivot off.
After the doorknob is removed, insert the stem of the Key Tool into the slot (if present)
or into the back of the spring latch and pull or twist toward the hinge side of the door to
activate the latch.
Figure 116 - Knob removal
Figure 117 - Axe head as
a backstop
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Forcing the Key-In-The-Knob Lock – Removing the Center of the Knob
There are some locks where the center of the knob can be removed (example, Kwikset
type lock) with a knife-like tool or slotted screwdriver.
Figure 118 - Removal of
lock face
Forcing Key-In-The-Knob Locks – Outward Swinging Doors
Key-in-the-Knob locks on outward swinging doors have a simple spring latch which
can be slipped back (opened) with a flat tool such as a Shove Tool.
Figure 119 - Shove Tool
At times there is a simple device known as anti-loitering pin, which may be added to
the latch. This pin prevents the insertion of the shove tool without moving this pin first.
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Figure 120 - Pin
engaged
Figure 121 - Pin
pushed back
Tubular Dead Bolt
This is a very popular locking device. It may be single or double key activated. It is a
cross between a mortise lock, rim lock and a key-in-the-knob lock. These locks may be
recognized by their position on the door and/or the size and shape of the cylinder.
These locks have become more sophisticated as the demand for greater security has
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increased. They may have a hardened steel rod through the center of the locking bolt.
The length of the bolt has been increased to the point that it may take two full
rotations of the key to remove the bolt from the keeper.
The lock face is usually held in place by a hardened steel mounting. The cylinder is
either too deep or too wide, which prevents the K-Tool from being used. To use the
Thru-the-Lock method, the cylinder needs to be removed to enable the use of a Key
Tool to trip the lock. If the K-Tool is unable to remove the cylinder, then an alternate
method of removal would be needed to use this method.
If the cylinder is unable to be removed, then you will have to resort to conventional
forcible entry methods to force the lock.
The stem of the tubular deadbolt, which retracts the locking bolt, can be various
shapes.
Figure 122 - Tubular deadbolt
Forcing the Tubular Dead Bolt
Remove the cylinder by pulling it out with either the Officer’s Tool, K-Tool, or
modified Halligan.
Insert Key Tool.
Rotate to open.
Figure 123 - Remove cylinder
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Technique Tip: Place the Officer’s Tool at an angle to start the operation.
Note: Using the Officer’s Tool would be the preferred method on most of these locks
due to its ability to get a better bite behind the cylinder.
These locks may be found below the normal entry lock and doorknob to prevent
someone from kicking in the lock.
Problems Encountered When Using the K-Tool
Figure 124 - Cylinder too deep
Figure 125 - Cylinder too wide
RIM Locks
These locks are usually installed as an add-on lock. They are installed on the inside
surface of the door (with the cylinder extended through the door). Only the cylinder is
visible from the outside of the door. See Chapter 5 for types of rim locks.
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Figure 126 - Rim lock on the
outside of a door
Figure 127 - Rim locks are usually
added on to the inside of a door
Principal of Operation – RIM Lock
The back of the rim cylinder has a stem, which is inserted into the backside of the lock.
As the key is rotated in the cylinder, the stem on the back end of the cylinder rotates
the latch or bolt, which locks or unlocks the lock.
Figure 128 - Rim lock
operation
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Using a Lock Puller (Officer’s Tool / K-Tool)
Set the lock puller behind the cylinder getting a secure purchase.
Pry up on the lock puller, pulling the cylinder from the door.
T he back plate is either pulled through the opening or the set screws are
ripped from the back plate.
Insert correct “Key Tool” and turn, unlocking the lock.
Note: The cylinder is held in place by two set screws through a back plate. It is the back
plate being pulled through the cylinder hole that determines the difficulty.
Figure 129 - Set the Tool
Figure 130 - Pry up on
the cylinder
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Figure 131 - Pull the back
plate through
Figure 132 - Turn the key
tool to manipulate the lock
Note: Once you have pulled the lock cylinder, be sure to use the proper end of the Key
Tool.
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Figure 133 - Lock cylinder
removed
Figure 134 - Proper end of key tool
On some rim locks, a “shutter” may be installed over the lock mechanism. This will
prevent the insertion of a Key Tool. You may have to drive the lock off the door with the
tool inserted in the cylinder hole.
Figure 135 - Shutter installed over mechanism
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Driving Off the Lock
Figure 136 - Pike end
Figure 137 - Officers Tool
Mortise Locks
Are designed and manufactured to fit into a cavity in the edge of the door (either metal
or solid wood). They have a solid, threaded key cylinder which is held in place by two
set-screws. There are various types and styles of these locks available today.
A deadbolt and latch is a mortise type lock that contains both a latch and a bolt in one
unit.
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Figure 138 - Mortise Locks
Principle of Operation – Mortise Locks
As the key is rotated in the cylinder, it turns a cam on the back of the cylinder. This cam
contacts a lever inside the lock box removing it from the strike. Although the key will
cause the cam to make a complete revolution, the actual work of opening the bolt is
usually accomplished between 5 and 7 o’clock or 7 and 5 o’clock of that revolution
depending on which side (right or left) of the door the lock is mounted.
FORCING THE MORTISE LOCK:
Set the K-Tool firmly on the cylinder and remove the cylinder by pulling up.
Insert the correct Key Tool.
Rotate the Key Tool. If the mechanism is found at 5 o’clock, rotate toward 7
o’clock, if found at 7 o’clock, rotate toward 5 o’clock.
If mounted with a doorknob, it may have a latch that may be connected to a
second assembly.
This may necessitate a second revolution of the cam to remove the cam
from the keeper.
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Figure 139 - Mortise Lock: Remove
ring and cylinder, press lever down
with key tool before sliding the bolt,
turn doorknob
Note: Once you have pulled the lock cylinder, be sure to use the proper end of the Key
Tool.
Figure 140 - Lock cylinder removed
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Pivoting Deadbolt
This popular lock is usually found on aluminum and glass panel doors with narrow
stiles. It is also found on solid glass (tempered glass) doors with the frame on the top
and bottom edges only. Generally, these are commercial occupancies.
Principle of Operation – Pivoting Deadbolt
These locks usually have a laminated bolt, which may extend up to 1-3/4-inches. The
tripping mechanism is slightly different than other mortise locks, which requires the
correct Key Tool to be used to depress the locking pin, which rotates the dead bolt. The
pivoting bolt allows forward throw to be the entire depth of the frame channel.
Figure 141 - Pin
away = door locked
Figure 142 - Bolt pivots into the frame
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Figure 143 - Pin
forward = door
unlocked
The above is a narrow style, pivoting deadbolt showing the 1¾ inch laminated bolt. The
locking pin is AWAY from the leading edge of the door. The door is locked when the
pin is in this direction. As it is depressed the bolt “pivots” into the frame. When the
locking pin is FORWARD, the bolt is inside the frame and the door is unlocked.
Forcing the Pivoting Deadbolt - Using the K-Tool
This device is virtually impossible to force conventionally (axe and Halligan) without
breaking the glass insert and or destroying the door and or the frame because of the
long throw of the DEADBOLT (up to 1-3/4-inches).
Pulling this cylinder is usually no problem for the "K -Tool" (it was designed for this
lock). These cylinders rarely break apart.’
Instructions
Place the K-Tool over the cylinder and set by driving down over the face of
the cylinder to lock onto the cylinder.
Pry UP with the ADZ end of the Halligan, removing the cylinder.
Using the bent end of the Key Tool, DEPRESS the pin and SLIDE the pin
forward, pivoting the deadbolt down into the housing.
As the locking pin slides forward, the bolt is retracted, unlocking the door.
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Figure 144 - Insert K tool, pry up on lock cylinder, slide key tool in
and unlock
Note: The pin will be located at either the 5 o’clock or the 7 o’clock position. Move the
pin from 5 o’clock to 7 o’clock or from 7 o’clock to 5 o’clock to retract the bolt,
unlocking the door.
Figure 145 - Place end of key tool in to depress the pin
Forcing the Pivoting Deadbolt – Using the Vise Grips
The cylinder may be able to be turned out of the lock by using a pair of vise grips. Since
all cylinders are held in place with set-screws, a quarter turn clockwise may bend the
set screw just enough to allow you to turn the cylinder counter-clockwise and
remove it. After entry is accomplished, the cylinder may be screwed back into the lock
box.
This method may work on most mortise locks.
If the cylinder guard is beveled or rotates freely, pulling the cylinder is a difficult, if not
impossible, task.
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Forcing the Pivoting Deadbolt – Using the Vise Grips
Figure 146 - Vice grip on cylinder
Figure 147 - Unscrew cylinder to
expose locking pin
Note: At no time do we recommend breaking the glass in the door. The reason is safety.
If it is “Plate” glass, the broken pieces may be quite large and very heavy. If they
are in front of the doorway, they can become a tripping or slipping hazard. Glass
and water make for a very unsafe combination when on the ground.
If a glass piece hangs up in the frame it may become dislodged and strike a
member causing a severe cut or laceration. This is quite common since the smoke
coming from the occupancy may cover the upper portion of the doorframe
obscuring any fragments left in the door.
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Alternate Means of Forcing – Using the Saw
If the occupancy has center opening double doors, take the forcible entry saw with
the metal cutting blade and cut the bolt between the doors. There is enough room
between the doors because of the door swing and the space is usually covered with only
weather stripping. This may work with a single door if there is clearance for the saw to
get in.
Alternate Means of Forcing – Using the Saw
Figure 148 - Rotary saw
on pivoting bolt
Figure 149 - Completed cut on
pivoting bolt
Note: If the bolt has a ceramic insert it will be more difficult to cut through alternate
means of forcing – Using the Halligan
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Place the ADZ end of the Halligan between the door and the jamb, with the bar of the
Halligan in line with the cylinder, and parallel to the ground. Strike the Halligan with an
axe or maul DOWNWARD on the ADZ. This may snap the pin holding the bolt and pivot
the bolt out of the keeper.
This may work with single or double doors if there is room to place the Halligan.
Figure 150 - ADZ on top of
bolt, strike down
Figure 151 - Throw of
lock is down
PADLOCKS
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Padlocks are detachable locking devices having a sliding and pivoting shackle that pass
through fixed or removable hardware and then made secure.
This section provides information and recommended procedures and tools used for
forcible entry of padlocks. Like any fire or emergency, operational procedures and
conditions on arrival will dictate the course of action. Is it a tactical response - Fire
and/or life-threatening emergency or is it a routine response - non-life-threatening
emergency?
Padlocks are used in all types of occupancies, e.g., multiple dwellings, commercial,
private dwellings, vacant buildings and even subways and railroads.
Padlocks are used on both the exterior and interior of occupancies. They are found in
the places you least expect, and you may have to force one with only the tools you
carry. Therefore, members should be able to identify the various types of padlocks and
their attachment hardware and means of installation.
For this guide, the names of the locks used by the author are “street” names and not the
manufacturer’s product name.
Categories of Padlocks
For size-up and understanding of padlocks, they are placed in three (3) categories:
Light duty.
Heavy duty.
Special purpose.
Padlock Size Up:
Type of padlock.
Hardware and installation (attachment device).
How many padlocks and their location?
Accessibility.
Parts of a Padlock
Shackle or bow.
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Body, solid or laminated.
Keyway.
Figure 152 - Laminated lock on Left, Solid lock on
Right
Figure 153 - Keyway
Light Duty Padlock
Shackle or bow is usually 1/4 inch or less.
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Shackle or bow usually not case-hardened.
Body of lock, solid or laminated.
Keyway (type may vary).
Figure 154 - Light duty padlocks
Heavy Duty Padlock
Shackle or Bow, 1/4 inch and larger.
Body of lock, solid or laminated.
Case-hardened steel.
Toe and heel locking.
Guarded keyway.
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Figure 155 - Heavy duty padlocks
Special Padlocks
Hockey Puck / American 2000 Series
Round padlock, American 2000 is the most common. This device may also be called a
“doughnut” lock.
No exposed shackle.
Locking device fits over the staple.
Removable pin.
May be case-hardened.
Figure 156 - American 2000 Series (Hockey Puck Locks)
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Wrapped Lock
Constructed on an individual basis, it is not a commercially sold padlock and will vary in
strength.
Heavy gauge steel welded to the lock.
Limited access to the keyway.
Figure 157 - Additional
security for pad locks
Gate Locks
These are devices made specifically for securing roll-down security gates. There are a
few varieties of gate locks that are becoming very popular in urban areas. Here are a
few of the most common the authors have encountered.
Bolt Lock (Medeco)
This case-hardened, tubular steel device goes through the gate and rail securing the
occupancy. When secured properly it is very effective.
Figure 158 - Bolt lock front and side views
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Mushroom Lock
This device is secured into the bottom rail of the security gate.
Figure 159 - Mushroom lock
Tank Lock
An extreme method of protecting thepadlock. This is manufactured on the site. It is steel
welded to the frame protecting the padlock.
Figure 160 - Tank lock
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ASSOCIATED HARDWARE USED WITH PADLOCKS:
Hasps
Manufactured in many different sizes and strengths. They may be in-stalled with
screws or bolts, which may be guarded by the hinge while in the locked position.
Figure 161 - Hasp
Slide Bolts
A device that travels in a track, which locks into a recessed hole or hardware. Padlocks
pass through rear of bolt and are made secure. These slide bolts may be made of case-
hardened steel. They are installed with screws or carriage bolts which may be exposed
or guarded.
Figure 162 - Slide bolt
Note: An alternate means of forcing a slide bolt is to place the FORK or PIKE end
of the Halligan Tool inside the shackle and twist the entire lock to break the
hardware (slide bolt) holding the lock.
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Figure 163 - Twist
slide bolt off with the
fork of the halligan
Forcing Padlocks – Using the Forcible Entry Saw
Use the aluminum oxide blade. This should be the primary tool to remove padlocks,
hardware, and attachment devices. It offers speed and is relatively safer than striking
tools
Padlock with Exposed Shackle:
Rotate the padlock to get a cutting position.
Cut through BOTH SHACKLES AT THE SAME TIME.
Figure 164 - Cut shackle with
Rotary saw
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Padlock with Shielded Shackle
This could be the American 747 series or a wrapped lock.
Rotate the padlock; confirm that the shield covers both front and rear of the lock.
Cut through both shields at same time.
Apply two vertical cuts through the shackle if accessible.
Figure 165 - Shielded shackle
Hockey Puck Lock (American 2000 Series)
Cut through the body of the padlock 3/4 up from the keyway. If lock remains engaged
after being cut through, strike the side of the padlock with a sharp blow. This will usually
remove the lock. Some of the newer 2000 series have a shielded keyway which must
be cut to open the lock.
Figure 166 - Cut the upper third of lock with a rotary saw
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Figure 167 - Rotary saw
cutting a hockey puck
lock
Figure 168 - Hockey puck lock exposed
Note: This is a change from traditional cuts of 2/3-inches up the keyway. You must cut
¾-inches up from the keyway to clear the internal hasp.
Pike of The Halligan Tool
The PIKE of the Halligan Tool may be more effective on padlocks with
short shackles.
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Place the pike into the shackle opening, keeping the Halligan Tool as
horizontal as possible.
Maintain pressure on the lock body.
Deliver sharp blows with a maul or axe.
Figure 169 - When striking either tool with the axe, the eight-pound axe is
preferred.
Forcing Padlocks – Using the Bolt Cutters
Bolt Cutters
Bolt cutters are excellent for cutting light duty pad locks, light duty chains, cable, and
hardware. As a last resort they can also be used to cut heavy-duty padlocks, but when
used this way, they may damage the jaws of the bolt cutter.
If they must be used for a heavy-duty padlock:
Open the bolt cutter to the maximum spread.
Position the bolt cutter so one handle is securely positioned against a
substantial object (wall, ground, etc.).
Push with hands on handle to cut the hardware.
Note: Most heavy-duty padlocks have toe and heel locking. Both sides of the shackle
may have to be cut or twisted to remove the lock.
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Figure 170 - Cut the chain
Figure 171 - Cut the lock
Forcing Padlocks – Using the Pipe Wrench
Secure the jaw over the body of the lock.
Apply force downward.
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Figure 172 - Hockey puck lock with
pipe wrench and cheater bar
Note: This will only work on the American series 2000 lock. This method of forcing this
lock WILL NOT work if there is any type of shielding present.
Forcing Padlocks – Thru-The-Lock
If you can remove the keyway (cylinder), you might expose the lock mechanism and
possibly trip the lock using a modified Key Tool or screwdriver. Two methods that have
been used with some success are the Bam-Bam tool (FDNY), which will remove the
keyway, and prying off the guard, (protecting the keyway), allowing the cylinder to
possibly drop out.
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ROLL-DOWN SECURITY GATES
Roll-down security gates are becoming quite common throughout many cities. These
gates protect storefronts, factories, warehouse, and residential occupancies. They are
also used to secure occupancies inside buildings, vacant buildings, and roof bulkhead
doors in vacant buildings.
Adjacent to the opening (window or door) two channel rails are secured to the exterior
wall. These are known as the “guide rails.” Above the guide rails is a drum which
houses the curtain (interlocking slats of metal or fiber glass). The slats ride up and
down in the guide rail covering the opening. The curtain may be raised manually,
mechanically (with a chain assist) or through electricity. All roll-down gates are
constructed the same, except for the opening mechanism.
Fire Ground Problems
Designed for security, they have added to our fire ground problems by:
Delayed discovery.
Intense fire upon arrival.
Extension of fire throughout.
Very high heat and heavy smoke conditions.
Potential for backdraft.
Ventilation delayed and limited.
Potential for wall collapse.
Difficulty in locating the seat of the fire.
Time consumed in extended forcible entry.
Need for power saws to gain entry.
Difficulty in determining the exact entrance door when numerous gates are
present.
May block entrance to sidewalk cellar door, upper floors, and FD Siamese
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connection.
Gates may be secured from the inside, and occupants use another exit to
leave building or worse yet, lock themselves inside.
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TYPES OF GATES:
Sliding Scissor Gate.
Manual Roll-Down Gate.
Mechanical Roll-Down Gate.
o Chain Operated
o Gear Operated
Electric Roll-Down Gate.
Sliding Scissor Gate
This is the oldest type of security gate. These are among the first barriers that owners
put in place to discourage vandalism and break-ins. Unlike the more common gates we
encounter today, these gates slide in a track to open.
Construction Features
The bottom track usually picks up and secures the gate in the open
position; some pivot ninety degrees to achieve the maximum opening.
These gates may be secured with numerous padlocks.
These locks will be in the center of the opening of the gate cover or off to
one side, attached to the frame.
Figure 173 - Sliding scissor security gate
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Forcible Entry Operations
Locate and remove all padlocks and / or other locking devices.
Slide the gate manually.
Lift the bottom track and secure in open position. If possible, rotate
gate ninety degrees to achieve maximum opening.
Figure 174 - Doorway gate
Figure 175 - Full store front gate
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Usually found on the front of smaller occupancies. These gates can cover an entire
storefront or just a doorway.
Construction Features
Gates ride up and down a channel rail on each side of the gate.
The slats may be wider on the older gates.
The gate is attached to a winding drum.
At the top of the gate (on larger manual gates), the drum may have a
spring counter-balance to assist in the opening.
The winding drum is concealed behind sheet metal housing or inside
the building wall.
These gates are secured with metal pins that pass through the channel
rail and the gate. These pins are secured to the channel rail with a
padlock that attaches to a metal clip or staple welded to the channel
rail.
Each gate may be secured with numerous padlocks.
The manual gate is easily recognized by the absence of a raising
mechanism housing on the side of the winding drum (top of the gate).
Lifting handles are usually attached to the bottom rail of the gate.
Slide bolts may be attached to bottom rail and may be secured into the
channel rail with a padlock.
The curtain may be constructed of:
o Inter-locked, solid sheet metal slats.
o Open grill metal bars connected with metal tabs.
o Fiber glass.
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Figure 176 - Metal curtain
Figure 177 - Metal curtain doorway
Forcible Entry Operations
Locate and remove all padlocks and/or other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts out.
o Most of the padlock points will have a removable pin.
o Bottom rail usually has a slide bolt to disengage.
Raise gate with lift handle or bottom bar.
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Figure 178 - Exterior locks on roll up
door/curtain
Figure 179 - Be aware of external
latches that may be easier than forcing
the door
Mechanical Roll-Down Gate (Chain Hoist)
The mechanical roll-down gate has all the same features as the manual gate. These
types of gates are generally found on wider openings.
Construction Features
Gates ride up and down a channel rail on each side of the gate.
The slats will be narrower, span a wider opening.
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On gates mounted on the exterior walls of buildings, the chain hangs from
a narrow metal housing attached to the side of the winding drum housing.
The chain is secured behind a hinged piece of angle iron. The chain is
attached to a hold-down device such as a bolt to prevent pulling the chain
out from the top of the angle iron. The angle iron is secured to the channel
rail with one or more padlocks.
On gates mounted with the winding drum concealed in the building wall,
the chain will not be visible. The chain will be secured in a small access
panel on the building wall adjacent to the channel rail. A key operated
latch type lock will secure the access panel.
The hoisting chain is secured behind a piece of angle iron and usually
secured with padlocks.
Each gate may be secured with numerous padlocks and slide bolts like
the manual gates.
The gate is usually larger, hence heavier.
Figure 180 - Mechanical roll down gate (Chain Hoist)
Forcible Entry Operations
Locate and remove all padlocks and/or other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts out.
Free the chain hoist from its hold-down device and raise the gate with the
chain.
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o The angle iron covering the chain hoist is usually hinged and must
be pivoted out and away from the rail to access the chain hoist.
o If the angle iron is not hinged, you may have to it pry open to
access the chain.
If the gate cannot be raised with the chain hoist assemblies, cut the chain
near the top and raise it manually.
Figure 181 - Notice the different housing for the pull chain
Note: This may take several firefighters since it will be much heavier.
Open-Grill or Designer Gate (Variation of A Roll-Down Gate)
The open-grill or designer gate has the same basic design as the other types of roll-
down gates. The variation is that sections of the gate, either all or partial, are
constructed of small, tubular pieces of metal or metal bars, connected with metal tabs.
This type of gate is open so that you may see what is behind it.
.
This type of gate is generally used where high security is not vital or where the owner
wants the public to view the display and provide some security.
Construction Features
All the same construction features of the other style gates.
The curtain may be all or partial of a grid like design.
Operation of gate will be the same as any other. It can be manually,
mechanically, or electrically operated.
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Open-Grill or Designer Gate
Construction Features
Each gate may be secured with numerous padlocks.
Slide bolts may be present at the bottom.
Forcible Entry Operations
Locate and remove all padlocks and /or other locking devices.
Pull (slide) all metal pins and slide bolts out.
Operate gate based on the type of design, either manual, mechanical or
electric.
Figure 182 - Familiarity of designer
gates help in forcible entry
Locking Devices Found on Roll-Down Gates
There are many ways to secure these gates. Having some knowledge as to how the
locking devices are installed will aid you in removing them.
Generally, there is an opening made into the channel rail and the curtain.
Through this opening a “pin” may be inserted which prevents the curtain
from moving up.
There could also be an “eye” buried into the sidewalk to secure the bottom
rail.
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Figure 183 - Examples of locking devices found on roll-down gates
Steps for Removal:
Cut or open padlock and remove.
Remove PIN.
Raise curtain.
Figure 184 - Eye bolt or pin bolt
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Figure 185 - Padlock through a
pin bolt
Gate Lock (Bolt Lock)
Another popular device for securing roll-down security gates, fire doors, counter doors,
and shutters.
Features
No hasps.
No shackle.
No pin.
Resists cutting, drilling.
Pick Proof
Figure 186 - Bolt lock
Forcible Entry
Go for the weakest point of this lock, which is the brass pin which rotates the cam.
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One way to force this device is to apply pressure outward and try to snap the brass
pin.
Figure 187 - Downward pressure to snap the brass pin
Note: With many of these locks being covered (shielded) with steel, another method
would be to try and cut the body of the lock on an angle between the rail and
curtain
Figure 188 - Cut the body of
the bolt lock
External Shields
Most any type of padlock can be found with an external shield. They are used to protect
the padlock and to make forcible entry more difficult.
Types of Shielding for Padlocks
Wrapped shield welded to padlock.
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Fixed shield to padlock attachment point.
Removable shield.
Welded box.
Figure 189 - External shields
Figure 190 - Examples of external shields around locks
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Forcible Entry Operations
Utilizing the Power Saw, cut through the shield and lock.
Cut the gate.
Figure 191 - American
Series 747
Cutting the Roll-Down Curtain
There are many ways to cut roll-down security gates to gain access. There are just as
many theories to justify these cuts. Each has its own merits but for simplicity, we are
showing just a few.
Remember, each fire situation will dictate the appropriate cut.
Note: Always check to see if the bottom rail is covering a street-level cellar door. Once
a cut is made, it will cover over that means of access/egress.
Triangular Cut
This is the quickest and fastest to get water on the fire. The key to this cut is the
overlapping of cuts as high as you can get and bringing the cuts down to the
ground.
Advantages:
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Ability to put water on the fire immediately.
Disadvantages:
Large pile of cut gate in front of opening.
Unable to cut all the way to ground.
The cut can only be made as high as the saw operator’s reach.
Figure 192 - Teepee cut
Figure 193 - Do not cross cuts until second cut is complete
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Triangular Cut
Figure 194 - Drive pike into slat to remove sections
Box Cut
This operation requires three vertical cuts. The key to this evolution is ensuring the
outside cuts are at least a foot away from the guide rail. Again, the cuts must be
made as high as possible and down to the ground. Unlike the triangular cut where
gravity brings the cut to the ground, here a couple of slats must be removed manually
pulling them from the rail side toward the middle.
Advantages:
Less of a pile in front of the opening.
Can be used on very wide openings.
If done correctly, the opening will be squared.
Disadvantages:
Requires more time.
Requires more than one member.
Must remove slat above the locking pin.
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Figure 195 - Cut should be a
foot away from guide rail and
as high as possible
Figure 196 Cutting the roll down curtain
Figure 197 - Drive the Pike end of the Halligan into a slat to
remove. If slats are tight, drive the Halligan with an axe.
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MISCELLANEOUS SECURITY PROBLEMS
Window Bars
As a rule, bars are fixed and permanent. Gates are designed to open but may be fixed.
These obstacles come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and strengths. They may be
mounted to the window frame with screws or bolts or set into the mortar. Bars and gates
are used primarily for security and leave very little room for error in the case of fire.
Attacking and removing these obstacles during a fire situation takes time. If fire is being
vented through the window being worked on, it becomes more of a challenge. Anyone
trapped behind them has little chance of survival.
Figure 198 - Security bars in masonry
Forcing Window Bars
Bars are usually secured to a window at four points. The mounting point may be a lag
bolt into the mortar or brick, or the mounting point may be part of the brickwork.
Figure 199 - Most
security bars are lagged
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Using a Halligan Tool, you may be able to pry the bar from its mount.
Figure 200 - Depending on the depth of
lag or set, you may be able to pry the
bar away from the building
Using a power saw, cut the mounting bracket and remove the entire bar assembly, or
cut two sides and bend the bars away.
Figure 201 - Utilize the rotary saw
to cut the bars off
After forcing the attachment points on one side, push the gate to the side (while still
attached with a hook), allowing an unobstructed opening.
Pushing the gate to the side still attached will cause the gate to break free, dropping it
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to the ground.
Keep this area clear to prevent anyone from getting hit by the falling gate.
Note: Start this operation from the bottom and work up to stay out of the path of the
gate if it should fall.
Figure 202 - Swing the bars away
from the window
Window Bars: Various Types and Mountings
Figure 203 – Examples of various types of security bars
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Window Gates
Gates come in a variety of types. They vary in size and strength. From the “Scissor”
type to the more formidable “Jail-House” type gates.
Gates are usually attacked at the hinge side since the swing side is usually secured with
a padlock. Using the Halligan Tool, the frame of the gate is pulled away from the
window frame. The window gate is usually held in place with screws.
In doing this, the window must be broken. This will complicate the action because we
have “vented” the area we want to access. In gaining access, the entire gate should be
removed, as well as the window sash and any window decorations (curtains, verticals,
etc.).
Note: When entering via a window with a gate, you must ensure your way out.
Other windows may be similarly fortified.
Approved Type Window Gate
Most people are very concerned about their security and will use any method it takes to
guarantee it.
In many municipalities, approved gates may be used. This is to eliminate the need for
padlocks or other entrapment devices. These “approved” gates usually have a locking
device that is in the form of a lever enclosed behind a small door, thereby eliminating
the need for a padlock.
There is no “one way” to remove these obstacles. Like everything else in fighting fires,
you must take what is given you and make the best of it.
Using the correct tool and common sense should get the job done.
Forcing Approved Type Window Gates
The following are suggested methods:
Pry the hinge away from the frame by using the FORK end of the tool. You will get more
leverage this way, but you may be restricted due to a fire escape.
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Figure 204 - Use ADZ
end if there is no room
Figure 205 - Pry off the hinge
with the fork end
Forcing Swing Bar Gate
HUD Windows/Doors
When buildings and in some cases, occupancies become vacant, the owner will secure
the premises pending further renovation, or re- occupancy.
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Figure 206 - Boarded up
vacant
Figure 207 - Typical
board up
One or two sheets of plywood over a window opening secured with two or four, 2 x 4’s.
The 2 x 4’s (Two-by-fours) are wider than the window opening and hold the plywood in
place. One or two bolts go through the 2 x 4’s and secure the plywood in place.
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Figure 208 - Outside View
Figure 209 - Side View
Figure 210 - Inside View
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Forcing A HUD Window
To remove this obstacle, use the PIKE of the Halligan Tool to strike and split the 2 x 4 at
the bolt. Splitting one side and rotating the other is usually sufficient. This would have to
be done to both of the 2 x 4’s.
Figure 211 - Split the 2x4 with the pike
Another method to remove these would be using the forcible entry saw (aluminum oxide
blade). In this method, the bolt head that is securing the 2 x 4 would be cut at a slight
angle. Once the bolt heads are removed, you can drive the bolt through using the PIKE
end of the Halligan.
Forcing A HUD Window
Figure 212 - Cut the bolt heads with a rotary saw
Plywood Covering Window/Door
When the plywood is secured to the inside of the window frame only, just pry the
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window trim away and the plywood covering comes with it. If attached on the exterior,
this removal is more involved, and the same problem exists with the potential for the
sheathing “sailing.”
Figure 213 - Secured inside
Figure 214 - Secured outside
A variation to the plywood covering is nailing wire lath to the sheet of plywood, followed
by a “scratch coat” of mortar. This makes an effective seal and offers no point of
reference as to where the opening is. This method of sealing will usually provide three
layers of covering, plywood, wire mesh and mortar, forming an effective seal.
Figure 215 - Three layers forming an effective seal
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Forcing Entry
This type is best removed using the power saw (carbide tip blade). Using one of the
following methods will work in most situations:
Cut an “X” opening in the plywood and peel it back.
Cut an opening into the plywood, creating another door.
With a window, cut a triangle for immediate access.
Chain and Padlock (Formidable Device)
A hole cut through the door and the bulkhead and secured with a chain. There is
nothing to get leverage on since the chain will slip through the hole.
In this instance, attack the hinge side first and pivot the door on the lock side.
Figure 216 - Chain through plywood
An alternate method would be to batter the door at the chain attempting to break the
door at the opening holding the chain.
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Figure 217 - Break away the plywood
to release the chain
Note: If there is a heavy smoke condition, attempt to vent the skylight above the
bulkhead first. This will vent the stairs while you are attempting to open the door.
Tight Door in a Metal Frame
Drive the ADZ of the Halligan Tool into the side, top or bottom of the door, to get a
purchase point. Another method would be to use the PIKE end. By “toeing” the Halligan
Hook, you can use the hook to drive the Halligan into the seam to get a purchase. Work
the Halligan Tool down to the area of the locking device and force the door.
Note: There is usually some clearance at the top and/or bottom of most doors.
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Figure 218 - Pry down on the
halligan from the bottom to
insert the hook
Figure 219 - Replace the hook
with the halligan
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Figure 220 - Utilize the hook
as a force and hit the halligan
Figure 221 - Hook becomes
your force
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DEFINITIONS
“A” Tool A lock puller (Officer’s Tool, FDNY).
ADZ The axe-like tool with a curved blade at right angle to the
handle (shaft).
Arch The inside curve on the fork end of the Halligan Tool
where the two blades of the fork are joined.
Batter the Door Striking the door, doorframe, with an axe, maul or
Halligan Tool.
Bevel Side The curved side of the fork end of the Halligan Tool.
Bolt A fastening device that is square or round that slides into
a notch (keeper).
Chocking the Door A means of keeping a door open.
Claw Tool A forcible entry tool.
Cylinder Guard A metal security plate mounted over the lock cylinder.
Door Flexes Door bends but does not break or open.
Door Frame A structural boarder into which a door is hung, also
known as a door- buck or doorjamb.
Door Rail The outer edge of a door, usually the strongest part of
the door.
Door Stop That portion of the doorframe that prevents the door from
winging past the frame.
Doughnut Lock American 2000 series lock “Hockey Puck.”
Duckbill Lock Breaker A tool designed for forcing padlocks (FDNY).
Fasco Lock American 2000 series lock used for securing
maintenance rooms in public housing developments.
Gap the Door The initial opening made in the door and or frame to
create a purchase point.
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Glass Door A tempered glass door.
Guarded Keyway A device over the keyway to prevent the keyway from
being removed.
Halligan Tool Forcible entry tool.
Hockey Puck American 2000 series lock “Doughnut Lock.”
Horseshoe Padlock Type of heavy-duty lock.
HUD Window/Door A method of securing an opening with plywood and 2 x
4’s horizontal to the opening securing the plywood.
Inward Opening Door Door swings AWAY from you.
Irons Set of forcible entry tools, usually an axe and Halligan
Tool.
Jimmying a Door Separating (spreading) of the door away from the jamb.
K-Tool A tool designed for pulling lock cylinders.
Kalameine Door A door covered with metal.
Key Tool A set of tools used in conjunction with K-Tool to open
locks.
Latch A fastening device that is angled to slide into a notch
(keeper).
Lock In Getting the Halligan Tool or lock puller tool behind the
doorframe.
Lock Puller A tool designed to pull lock cylinders.
Mortise Lock A locking device that is designed to fit into the cavity in
the edge of the door.
Multi-Lock Door A door with an integrated lock system which has four
pins locking the door into the jamb at four different points.
Officer’s Tool Lock puller or “A” tool.
Outward Opening Door Door swings TOWARD you.
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Pivoting Deadbolt A fastening device that is square and pivots into a notch
(keeper).
Pocket Door An interior sliding door that slides into a partition or cavity
in the wall.
Police Lock A vertical bar lock.
Purchase Point The opening made in the door / door frame for forcing the
door.
Rail of the Door The outer edge of a door, usually the strongest part of
the door.
Replacement Door A pre-hung door and jamb installed into an EXISTING
frame.
Rim Lock A surface mounted lock.
Set the Tool Driving the Halligan Tool into the GAP until the arch of
the fork is even with the door and or the door stop.
Shoulder The topside of the fork end at the shaft.
Slipping the Door Moving the Halligan Tool up and down to free the tool
that may be stuck.
Springing the Door Moving the Halligan Tool side to side (in and out) to free
the tool that may be stuck.
Stacked Locks A series of locks placed close together on a door.
Static Bar A fastening device which can be mounted across the
door.
Stem On a rim lock, that portion of the lock cylinder that locks
or unlocks the mechanism.
Thru-the-Lock Gaining entry by attacking the locking device and
opening the door with little or no damage to the door and
or frame.
Tubular Dead Bolt A cylinder lock that is a cross between a mortise lock, rim
lock and a Key-in-the-Knob lock. May be double-keyed.
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Warehouse Window/Door A method of securing an opening with plywood and 2x4’s
angled to the floor.
Wrapped Lock Padlock with steel welded to the lock.
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REFERENCES
Fire Department of New York
Forcible Entry Manual
Standard Operating Procedures
Section 201.005, Risk Management Policy
Section 202.002b, Residential Structure Fires, Garage
Section 202.003, Commercial/Big Box Fires
Section 202.023a, Center Hall Construction
Training and Equipment Manual
Section 309.002, STIHL TS 400 Cutting Saw
Individual Performance Evaluations
Section 316.036, Operate a Stihl TS 400 Rotary Saw
Guides
Building Construction Guide
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TABLE OF FIGURES
Figure 1 - Irons Married Together ................................................................................. 42
Figure 2 - Choke a door open at the jamb ..................................................................... 43
Figure 3 - Choke a door open at the floor ...................................................................... 43
Figure 4 - Hold the purchase of the opening ................................................................. 44
Figure 5 - Be a backstop for the halligan ....................................................................... 44
Figure 6 - "Pro Bar" Single Piece Halligan .................................................................... 45
Figure 7 - Set of Irons .................................................................................................... 45
Figure 8 - Sharpen the bevel of the forks ...................................................................... 46
Figure 9 - File off mushrooming of the flat head from striking the halligan .................... 46
Figure 10 - 10# Sledge .................................................................................................. 47
Figure 11 - Halligan hook steel ...................................................................................... 47
Figure 12 - Halligan hook fiberglass .............................................................................. 47
Figure 13 - K Tool with lock blades ............................................................................... 48
Figure 14 - K Tool slides over the lock to pull the lock face off ...................................... 48
Figure 15 - Homemade shove knife .............................................................................. 49
Figure 16 - Vice Grips used to twist lock face and expose internal locking mechanism 49
Figure 17 - Bolt Cutters Large and Small ...................................................................... 49
Figure 18 - Pipe wrench used like vice grips to twist off lock face and expose internal
locking mechanism ........................................................................................................ 50
Figure 19 - Pipe can be slid onto the pipe wrench and used as a cheater bar to gain
leverage on sticky locks ................................................................................................ 50
Figure 20 - Rotary Saw ................................................................................................. 51
Figure 21 - Cordless drill ............................................................................................... 51
Figure 22 - Cordless Sawzall ........................................................................................ 52
Figure 23 - Key in Knob ................................................................................................. 53
Figure 24 - Tubular deadbolt ......................................................................................... 53
Figure 25 - Rim lock ...................................................................................................... 54
Figure 26 - Rim lock attached to surface of door ........................................................... 54
Figure 27 – Mortise lock in frame .................................................................................. 54
Figure 28 - Mortise lock ................................................................................................. 55
Figure 29- Mortise / Latch Key ...................................................................................... 55
Figure 30 - Deadbolt and Latch ..................................................................................... 56
Figure 31 – Mortise / Doorknob ..................................................................................... 56
Figure 32 - Magnetic door locks .................................................................................... 57
Figure 33 - Magnetic door lock add-on .......................................................................... 57
Figure 34 - Place nail on magnet lengthwise ................................................................. 58
Figure 35 - Wood frame with glass insert ...................................................................... 59
Figure 36 - Hollow core door ......................................................................................... 60
Figure 37 - Solid core door ............................................................................................ 60
Figure 38 - Kalameine door ........................................................................................... 61
Figure 39 - Metal door ................................................................................................... 61
Figure 40 - Tempered glass doors ................................................................................ 62
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Figure 41 - Aluminum frame glass door ........................................................................ 63
Figure 42 - Slide bolt added on with supplemental locks ............................................... 64
Figure 43 - Double drop bar .......................................................................................... 64
Figure 44 - Outside view with bolt heads ....................................................................... 65
Figure 45 - Drop bar ...................................................................................................... 65
Figure 46 - Angle iron over door gap ............................................................................. 66
Figure 47 - Shielded angle iron ..................................................................................... 66
Figure 48 - Secondary lock on bottom of door .............................................................. 67
Figure 49 - Supplemental homemade locking devices .................................................. 68
Figure 50 - Lock halligan into chain and attempt to pry chain from the frame ............... 68
Figure 51 - Forcible entry team ..................................................................................... 69
Figure 52 - Gap the door up and down .......................................................................... 71
Figure 53 - Gap the door ............................................................................................... 72
Figure 54 - Spring the door to prevent the forks from hitting the frame ......................... 73
Figure 55 - Set the Tool ................................................................................................. 73
Figure 56 - Arch or Crotch of the halligan ...................................................................... 74
Figure 57 - Fork tip locked onto frame inside the door .................................................. 74
Figure 58 - Strike the ADZ and drive the body of the tool.............................................. 75
Figure 59 - Driving the body .......................................................................................... 76
Figure 60 - Push door inward using the frame as a fulcrum for the forks and halligan .. 76
Figure 61 - Two-person force ........................................................................................ 77
Figure 62 - Pike into the frame ...................................................................................... 78
Figure 63 - Gapping the door with the ADZ ................................................................... 78
Figure 64 - Bevel to the frame ....................................................................................... 79
Figure 65 - Batter the door ............................................................................................ 79
Figure 66 - Batter the frame .......................................................................................... 80
Figure 67 - Remove the door stop ................................................................................. 81
Figure 68 - Contact with doorframe ............................................................................... 81
Figure 69 - Increase angle ............................................................................................ 82
Figure 70 - Striking bolt/lock .......................................................................................... 82
Figure 71 - Reposition halligan ...................................................................................... 82
Figure 72 - Spring the door ........................................................................................... 83
Figure 73 - Wedged forks in tight door .......................................................................... 83
Figure 74 - Top View of ADZ in door ............................................................................. 84
Figure 75 - Front View of ADZ in door ........................................................................... 84
Figure 76 - Blade into door seam .................................................................................. 85
Figure 77 - Head into door seam ................................................................................... 85
Figure 78 - Drive lock off the door ................................................................................. 86
Figure 79 - Visualize the locking mechanism ................................................................ 86
Figure 80 - Drive the lock off the door ........................................................................... 87
Figure 81 - Gap, Set, Force with the Forks ................................................................... 88
Figure 82 - Gap, Set, Force inside the angle iron .......................................................... 88
Figure 83 - Gapping the door (Top View) ...................................................................... 89
Figure 84 - Gapping the door (Front View) .................................................................... 89
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Figure 85 - Set the Tool ................................................................................................. 90
Figure 86 - Force the Door ............................................................................................ 90
Figure 87 - Gap, Set, Force ........................................................................................... 91
Figure 88 - Tight spaces are usually the norm in forcible entry ..................................... 92
Figure 89 - Gaining a purchase with the blade of the axe ............................................. 93
Figure 90 - Gaining a purchase with the ADZ of the halligan ........................................ 93
Figure 91 - Additional security on doors ........................................................................ 94
Figure 92 - Use the ADZ ............................................................................................... 94
Figure 93 - Use the Forks .............................................................................................. 95
Figure 94 - Peel the angle iron to present the gap ........................................................ 95
Figure 95 - Remove shield as the last resort ................................................................. 96
Figure 96 - Standard hinges .......................................................................................... 97
Figure 97 - Self closing hinge ........................................................................................ 98
Figure 98 - Pin type hinge ............................................................................................. 98
Figure 99 - ADZ End ..................................................................................................... 99
Figure 100 - Fork End ................................................................................................. 100
Figure 101 - Pike End .................................................................................................. 100
Figure 102 - Batter the door ........................................................................................ 100
Figure 103 - Remove door .......................................................................................... 101
Figure 104 - Remove hinge front and side view .......................................................... 102
Figure 105 - Cut hinge ................................................................................................. 103
Figure 106 - Cut the smallest amount of metal ............................................................ 103
Figure 107 - Break out the masonry holding the hinge ................................................ 104
Figure 108 - Place wedge out of the walking path so it does not get kicked out ......... 105
Figure 109 - Wood wedge ........................................................................................... 105
Figure 110 - Axe head as door chock.......................................................................... 106
Figure 111 - Axe head in frame ................................................................................... 106
Figure 112 - Nail in frame ............................................................................................ 107
Figure 113 - Remove the door so it does not close ..................................................... 107
Figure 114 - Rigging the lock ...................................................................................... 108
Figure 115 - Latch strap .............................................................................................. 108
Figure 116 - Knob removal .......................................................................................... 110
Figure 117 - Axe head as a backstop .......................................................................... 110
Figure 118 - Removal of lock face ............................................................................... 111
Figure 119 - Shove Tool .............................................................................................. 111
Figure 120 - Pin engaged ............................................................................................ 112
Figure 121 - Pin pushed back ..................................................................................... 112
Figure 122 - Tubular deadbolt ..................................................................................... 113
Figure 123 - Remove cylinder ..................................................................................... 113
Figure 124 - Cylinder too deep .................................................................................... 114
Figure 125 - Cylinder too wide .................................................................................... 114
Figure 126 - Rim lock on the outside of a door ............................................................ 115
Figure 127 - Rim locks are usually added on to the inside of a door ........................... 115
Figure 128 - Rim lock operation .................................................................................. 115
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Figure 129 - Set the Tool ............................................................................................. 116
Figure 130 - Pry up on the cylinder ............................................................................. 116
Figure 131 - Pull the back plate through ...................................................................... 117
Figure 132 - Turn the key tool to manipulate the lock.................................................. 117
Figure 133 - Lock cylinder removed ............................................................................ 118
Figure 134 - Proper end of key tool ............................................................................. 118
Figure 135 - Shutter installed over mechanism ........................................................... 118
Figure 136 - Pike end .................................................................................................. 119
Figure 137 - Officers Tool ............................................................................................ 119
Figure 138 - Mortise Locks .......................................................................................... 120
Figure 139 - Mortise Lock: Remove ring and cylinder, press lever down with key tool
before sliding the bolt, turn doorknob .......................................................................... 121
Figure 140 - Lock cylinder removed ............................................................................ 121
Figure 141 - Pin away = door locked ............................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 142 - Bolt pivots into the frame ......................................................................... 122
Figure 143 - Pin forward = door unlocked ....................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Figure 144 - Insert K tool, pry up on lock cylinder, slide key tool in and unlock ........... 124
Figure 145 - Place end of key tool in to depress the pin.............................................. 124
Figure 146 - Vice grip on cylinder ................................................................................ 125
Figure 147 - Unscrew cylinder to expose locking pin .................................................. 125
Figure 148 - Rotary saw on pivoting bolt ..................................................................... 126
Figure 149 - Completed cut on pivoting bolt ................................................................ 126
Figure 150 - ADZ on top of bolt, strike down ............................................................... 127
Figure 151 - Throw of lock is down ............................................................................. 127
Figure 152 - Laminated lock on Left, Solid lock on Right ............................................ 129
Figure 153 - Keyway ................................................................................................... 129
Figure 154 - Light duty padlocks ................................................................................. 130
Figure 155 - Heavy duty padlocks ............................................................................... 131
Figure 156 - American 2000 Series (Hockey Puck Locks) .......................................... 131
Figure 157 - Additional security for pad locks .............................................................. 132
Figure 158 - Bolt lock front and side views .................................................................. 132
Figure 159 - Mushroom lock ........................................................................................ 133
Figure 160 - Tank lock ................................................................................................. 133
Figure 161 - Hasp........................................................................................................ 134
Figure 162 - Slide bolt ................................................................................................. 134
Figure 163 - Twist slide bolt off with the fork of the halligan ........................................ 135
Figure 164 - Cut shackle with Rotary saw ................................................................... 135
Figure 165 - Shielded shackle ..................................................................................... 136
Figure 166 - Cut the upper third of lock with a rotary saw ........................................... 136
Figure 167 - Rotary saw cutting a hockey puck lock ................................................... 137
Figure 168 - Hockey puck lock exposed ...................................................................... 137
Figure 169 - When striking either tool with the axe, the eight-pound axe is preferred. 138
Figure 170 - Cut the chain ........................................................................................... 139
Figure 171 - Cut the lock ............................................................................................. 139
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Figure 172 - Hockey puck lock with pipe wrench and cheater bar .............................. 140
Figure 173 - Sliding scissor security gate .................................................................... 143
Figure 174 - Doorway gate .......................................................................................... 144
Figure 175 - Full store front gate ................................................................................. 144
Figure 176 - Metal curtain ........................................................................................... 146
Figure 177 - Metal curtain doorway ............................................................................. 146
Figure 178 - Exterior locks on roll up door/curtain ....................................................... 147
Figure 179 - Be aware of external latches that may be easier than forcing the door ... 147
Figure 180 - Mechanical roll down gate (Chain Hoist) ................................................. 148
Figure 181 - Notice the different housing for the pull chain ......................................... 149
Figure 182 - Familiarity of designer gates help in forcible entry .................................. 150
Figure 183 - Examples of locking devices found on roll-down gates ........................... 151
Figure 184 - Eye bolt or pin bolt .................................................................................. 151
Figure 185 - Padlock through a pin bolt ....................................................................... 152
Figure 186 - Bolt lock .................................................................................................. 152
Figure 187 - Downward pressure to snap the brass pin .............................................. 153
Figure 188 - Cut the body of the bolt lock .................................................................... 153
Figure 189 - External shields ....................................................................................... 154
Figure 190 - Examples of external shields around locks ............................................. 154
Figure 191 - American Series 747 ............................................................................... 155
Figure 192 - Teepee cut .............................................................................................. 156
Figure 193 - Do not cross cuts until second cut is complete ....................................... 156
Figure 194 - Drive pike into slat to remove sections .................................................... 157
Figure 195 - Cut should be a foot away from guide rail and as high as possible ......... 158
Figure 196 Cutting the roll down curtain ...................................................................... 158
Figure 197 - Drive the Pike end of the Halligan into a slat to remove. If slats are tight,
drive the Halligan with an axe. .................................................................................... 158
Figure 198 - Security bars in masonry......................................................................... 160
Figure 199 - Most security bars are lagged ................................................................. 160
Figure 200 - Depending on the depth of lag or set, you may be able to pry the bar away
from the building .......................................................................................................... 161
Figure 201 - Utilize the rotary saw to cut the bars off .................................................. 161
Figure 202 - Swing the bars away from the window .................................................... 162
Figure 203 – Examples of various types of security bars ............................................ 162
Figure 204 - Use ADZ end if there is no room ............................................................. 164
Figure 205 - Pry off the hinge with the fork end ........................................................... 164
Figure 206 - Boarded up vacant .................................................................................. 165
Figure 207 - Typical board up ..................................................................................... 165
Figure 208 - Outside View ........................................................................................... 166
Figure 209 - Side View ................................................................................................ 166
Figure 210 - Inside View .............................................................................................. 166
Figure 211 - Split the 2x4 with the pike ....................................................................... 167
Figure 212 - Cut the bolt heads with a rotary saw ....................................................... 167
Figure 213 - Secured inside ........................................................................................ 168
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Figure 214 - Secured outside ...................................................................................... 168
Figure 215 - Three layers forming an effective seal .................................................... 168
Figure 216 - Chain through plywood ........................................................................... 169
Figure 217 - Break away the plywood to release the chain ......................................... 170
Figure 218 - Pry down on the halligan from the bottom to insert the hook .................. 171
Figure 219 - Replace the hook with the halligan ......................................................... 171
Figure 220 - Utilize the hook as a force and hit the halligan ........................................ 172
Figure 221 - Hook becomes your force ....................................................................... 172